Tipped Off - New York Times
WHEN Thomas Keller, one of America’s foremost chefs, announced that on Sept. 1 he would abolish the practice of tipping at Per Se, his luxury restaurant in New York City, and replace it with a European-style service charge, I knew three groups would be opposed: customers, servers and restaurateurs. These three constituencies are all committed tipping - as they quickly made clear on Web sites. To oppose tipping, it seems, is to be anticapitalist, and maybe even a little French.
But Mr. Keller is right to move away from tipping - and it’s worth exploring why just about everyone else in the restaurant world is wrong to stick with the practice.
[snip]
Rather, customers are likely to tip more in response to servers touching them lightly and crouching next to the table to make conversation than to how often their water glass is refilled - in other words, customers tip more when they like the server, not when the service is good. (Mr. Lynn’s studies also indicate that male customers increase their tips for female servers while female customers increase their tips for male servers.)
What’s more, consumers seem to forget that the tip increases as the bill increases. Thus, the tipping system is an open invitation to what restaurant professionals call “upselling”: every bottle of imported water, every espresso and every cocktail is extra money in the server’s pocket. Aggressive upselling and hustling for tips are often rewarded while low-key, quality service often goes unrecognized.
Hurrah!
News like that makes me so happy that I’m considering going through the insanity of trying to get a table at Per Se again, just so that I don’t have to tip.
It’s no wonder why we’re the butt of so many European and Asian jokes - everyone feels they deserve a tip no matter what. Even airport security screeners at JFK:
On Feb. 11 [2002], Sean Mendis, an aviation consultant from Atlanta, saw a
handwritten sign that said “Tips Are Appreciated” at the security
checkpoint at Terminal 9 at John F. Kennedy International Airport in New
York. Mr. Mendis mentioned to the security screener that he didn’t think
the sign was appropriate. The screener, an employee of Worldwide Flight
Services, bristled at the criticism — and proceeded to question the
validity of Mr. Mendis’ American Airlines e-ticket.
So thank you thank you thank Thomas Keller. I hope this trend catches on broadly.